Quote from MXZ600NUT on 07/20/10 at 2:24pm:Considering the vehicle you have (Toyota 4 runner), that it is owned outright, and that you don’t use it as a primary I would fix it permanently and continue to run it with no worries and fix things as they come up. That would be the logical part of me speaking. On the other hand, I’m a car sleeper and get sick of them every couple years and always come up with an excuse to buy something new so if you want a new vehicle go buy one!
In all seriousness, you have a decent car with fairly low miles on it that is made for what you want to do with it. You own it and it needs some repairs that are expected with a vehicle that is 10 years old. This shouldn’t be a reason to dump it.
BTW- the high miles of a ford full size is not the same as high miles on an accord or a 4 runner. Though I wouldn’t be scared of 75K miles on an F-150 of that vintage I can’t say that you shouldn’t compare what you might spend in repairs in the next 4 years compared to if you kept your 4 runner. Probably not much of a difference.
I see lots of consumers trade in between 50-85K. They do this obviously to get good money(sweet spot), but also to avoid doing tires, brakes, shocks, struts, etc. Most of these vehicles get traded with little to no work done. Don’t be that guy that spends 20K on a used truck only to have to put in a couple more grand over the next year or so…..
Anyway, just my thoughts but again I don’t take any advice from anyone or use any of the tools I have hear at work when I buy a car. I buy what makes me happy.
Good advice there.
I'm of the somewhat frugal mindset and believe that if you own the vehicle outright with no payments, the motor and transmission are good, and rust hasn't attacked any other major component then I'd fix it and keep driving for the next year or two.
If you look at it this way, a few months worth of vehicle payments and the lower insurance cost will pay for the repairs to the vehicle you have now, then drive it for the rest of the year and bank the money you would have been sending toward vehicle payments.
Any chance the student workshop that rebuilt your sled would be able to do the work on the rear diff for less? Maybe look for a used differential casing or entire rear diff to save some coin as well? Also, 02 sensors are quite simple, usually a plug and play if you have the right sensor socket to remove and replace. Online parts vendors are often less expensive than local dealers, and could save you 20-40 bucks on the part cost if your mechanic is willing to go that route.